Lóngjǐng (龙井) — Dragon Well Green Tea

Lóngjǐng (龙井, "Dragon Well") is China's most famous green tea and one of its ten officially recognised famous teas. It is grown in the West Lake (西湖 Xīhú) district of Hángzhōu city, Zhèjiāng province — a narrow valley of mist-covered hills where tea cultivation has been documented since the Táng dynasty (618–907 CE). The first written references to Lóngjǐng as a tea date to the Sòng dynasty (960–1279). The tea takes its name from a natural spring in the Lóngjǐng village area: legend holds that the well connects to the sea, and that stirring the water reveals a dragon beneath. Emperor Qiánlóng (Qīng dynasty) visited the region in 1751 and personally praised the tea, after which Lóngjǐng was awarded the status of "imperial tea."

TL;DR: Flat-pressed, pan-fired green from Hángzhōu's West Lake hills. Five historic villages define the Xīhú GI zone. Míng qián (before April 5) harvest is prized highest. Taste: fresh, vegetal, toasted chestnut with lingering sweet finish. Brew 75–80°C, 3–4 g per 100 ml, 20–30 s. Widely counterfeited — origin matters.

Origin and geography

Genuine Xīhú Lóngjǐng (西湖龙井) is produced within a small protected GI zone (地理标志保护) covering approximately 168 km² in the West Lake Scenic Area. The soils are acidic, rich in organic matter, with high humus and mineral content, which gives the tea its characteristic sweetness and smoothness. Five sub-villages define the core terroir, each with a slightly different character:

Shīfēng material is the most sought-after and commands the highest prices. The pale, almost yellow-green colour of authentic Shīfēng leaf (caused by specific soil composition and shade) is a key authenticity indicator. In fact, Shīfēng tea accounts for less than 5% of all Xīhú Lóngjǐng.

Outside this zone, a broader designation — Zhèjiāng Lóngjǐng (浙江龙井) — covers teas from other parts of Zhèjiāng province (including well-known areas such as Qiántáng and Tiānmùshān) made in the same flat-pressed style. They may be excellent teas but are a different product.

The Lóngjǐng cultivar

Most commercial Xīhú Lóngjǐng today uses the Lóngjǐng 43 (龙井43号) cultivar — developed in the 1960s at the Zhèjiāng Tea Research Institute for early budding (approximately 7–10 days earlier than native varieties) and consistent production. It buds reliably before Qīngmíng, allowing dependable míng qián harvests, and produces uniform leaves with a characteristic chestnut aroma.

The older cultivar, Qúntǐ Zhǒng (群体种, "population variety"), is a genetically diverse seed-grown population used since ancient times. Qúntǐ Zhǒng buds less predictably (harvest timing varies with weather), but produces more complex flavour — fuller, with a more pronounced sweet aftertaste — prized by purists and typically more expensive.

There is also the Lóngjǐng Chángyè (龙井长叶) cultivar — developed in the 1980s, disease-resistant, but yielding a less pronounced aroma.

The harvest

The most important harvest grade is míng qián (明前, "before Qīngmíng") — leaf harvested before the Qīngmíng festival (清明节, ~April 4–5 each year). At this point the plant has just emerged from winter dormancy; the first tiny buds carry the highest concentration of amino acids (theanine — up to 2–3% of dry weight) and the lowest catechin content. This produces the sweetest, most aromatic Lóngjǐng of the year with almost no bitterness.

Yǔ qián (雨前, "before Grain Rain") — harvested April 5–20 (before Gǔyǔ, 谷雨, ~April 19–20) — is the second grade. Still excellent, with more body and slightly less delicacy.

One skilled picker can process only 500 g–1 kg of fresh leaf per day for míng qián material, which requires either a single bud (one shoot with leaf, "bud + one leaf" for highest quality, occasionally "bud + two leaves"). It takes roughly 60,000 hand-picked shoots to produce 500 g of finished míng qián Lóngjǐng. Picking is done from dawn until noon, while the leaf is still moist with dew.

Pan-firing and shaping

After brief withering (1–2 hours on bamboo trays in the shade), the leaf is pan-fired in a cast-iron wok at 180–220°C. The characteristic flat, sword-shaped form is created entirely by hand pressing during the roast: the master applies specific hand movements — pressing (压 yā), rotating (推 tuī), spreading (抖 dǒu) — in a sequence that simultaneously kills the enzymes (shā qīng 杀青), shapes the leaf, and develops the toasted character. The process takes 20–30 minutes per batch of 250–500 g of fresh leaf.

After the initial firing, the leaf is cooled and undergoes a second firing (huī chǎo 辉锅) at a lower temperature (120–150°C) for final drying and shape fixing. At this stage the leaf becomes flat, glossy, and brittle.

The resulting leaf should be:

• Flat and smooth, not wrinkled or broken
• Uniform pale green to yellow-green (Shīfēng: notably yellower than other origins)
• Uniformly sized within a batch — inconsistent sizing indicates lower quality

Taste profile

Lóngjǐng's defining character is a balance of fresh vegetables (raw snow peas, young asparagus, zucchini), toasted chestnuts, and a lingering sweet finish. Well-made míng qián material has minimal bitterness and a distinctive fragrant "clean" quality — often described in Chinese tasting notes as having the "orchid valley" (幽兰 yōulán) aroma or "chicken broth fragrance" (鸡汤香 jītāng xiāng) due to its umami notes. The aftertaste (回甘 huígān) is a key characteristic: sweetness returns 10–20 seconds after a sip.

Grassiness (青气 qīngqì) is a sign of insufficient pan-firing or poor raw material. Properly made Lóngjǐng should have no "raw" vegetal note.

The Shīfēng village profile is particularly prized: a gentle honeyed sweetness that other origins lack.

Brewing

Flat-leaf technique: Do not pour out all the water between steeps. Leave 10–20% in the vessel — exposing flat Lóngjǐng leaf to air between steeps causes rapid oxidation. The residual liquid protects the leaf surface.

Transparent glass is the traditional vessel for Lóngjǐng — watching the flat leaves slowly sink to the bottom and unfurl is part of the experience. An unglazed gaiwan or porcelain bowl also works. Avoid Yixing clay, which absorbs aroma.

Authenticity and counterfeiting

Xīhú Lóngjǐng is China's most counterfeited tea. The protected GI zone covers less than 170 km² of actual tea land; genuine production (about 3,000–4,000 tons per year) is drastically insufficient to meet global demand. By some estimates, 90–95% of "Lóngjǐng" on the market is Zhèjiāng Lóngjǐng (acceptable if labelled as such) or tea from other provinces entirely (Yúnnán, Sìchuān, Guìzhōu — misrepresented).

How to check:

• Leaf colour: Authentic Shīfēng is notably yellow-green, not bright green. Bright artificial green may indicate added colour (e.g., sodium copper chlorophyllin) or a different origin.
• Texture: Flat, smooth, uniform — not broken, twisted, or varying wildly in size.
• Fragrance: Gentle, fresh, slightly toasted. Sharp synthetic notes or heavy grassy smell → suspect origin.
• GI certification: Xīhú Lóngjǐng carries a traceable GI label (二维码, QR code with producer and harvest date information). Since 2011, all genuine Xīhú Lóngjǐng must bear such a label. Ask for it.
• Price: Genuine míng qián Xīhú Lóngjǐng cannot be cheap. Wholesale prices start at around ¥3,000 per 500 g (2023 data); retail is ¥10,000–20,000 per 500 g and above. If a price seems low for what is claimed, it is not what it claims to be.

Related

• Green Tea Overview — processing, brewing, and Chinese green tea context
• Chinese Tea Regions — Zhèjiāng and other producing provinces
• Ānjí Bái Chá — another famous Zhèjiāng green, very different character
• Gōngfū Brewing Guide

FAQ

Why does my Lóngjǐng taste bitter? Almost always water temperature. Lóngjǐng brewed above 85°C extracts catechins (bitter) faster than amino acids (sweet). Use 75–80°C for pre-Qīngmíng grades, 80–85°C for standard. Let boiled water cool 3–5 minutes in an open vessel before pouring.

What is special about Shīfēng (Lion Peak)? Shīfēng is the highest point in the Xīhú zone (about 200–250 m above sea level), with special mineral-rich soil (sandy, high in potassium). This gives the leaf its characteristic yellow-green colour and a honeyed sweetness not found in Lóngjǐng from other sub-villages. Shīfēng accounts for less than 5% of total Xīhú Lóngjǐng.

What is míng qián (明前)? "Before Qīngmíng" — harvest before April 5. The first buds of the year contain the most amino acids (sweetness, umami) and the fewest catechins (bitterness). The sweetest, most delicate Lóngjǐng of the year. Prices are 5–20 times higher than post-Qīngmíng material.

What is the difference between Xīhú Lóngjǐng and Zhèjiāng Lóngjǐng? Xīhú Lóngjǐng (西湖龙井) — from a small GI zone around West Lake, five specific villages. Zhèjiāng Lóngjǐng (浙江龙井) — from other parts of Zhèjiāng (Qiántáng, Tiānmùshān, etc.), made in the same flat-pressed style: same method, different terroir, usually lower price.

What is the difference between Lóngjǐng 43 and Qúntǐ Zhǒng? Lóngjǐng 43 is a cultivar selected in the 1960s for consistent early budding — reliable, uniform, good for míng qián harvests. Qúntǐ Zhǒng is the ancient seed-grown population variety, genetically diverse, less predictable, but typically more complex in flavour. Purists prefer Qúntǐ Zhǒng; it usually costs more.

Why must Lóngjǐng be brewed at a low temperature? The delicate amino acids (especially theanine) and aromatic compounds that give Lóngjǐng its sweetness and fragrance break down quickly above 85°C. Boiling water destroys them and instead extracts bitter catechins. The correct temperature (75–80°C) draws out sweetness while minimising bitterness.

Can you tell authentic Lóngjǐng by taste? Yes, but it requires experience. Genuine Xīhú Lóngjǐng (especially míng qián) has a characteristic "creamy" texture (滑润) and a long, sweet aftertaste (回甘) that tea from other regions cannot replicate. Additionally, the aroma of authentic harvest material is clean, without "sour" or "smoky" notes.

How do I know if my Lóngjǐng is authentic Xīhú? Check leaf colour (genuine Shīfēng is yellow-green, not bright green), texture (flat, smooth, uniform — not twisted or broken), and price (authentic míng qián Xīhú cannot be cheap). Ask for GI certification (QR code since 2011). Most "Lóngjǐng" on the market is Zhèjiāng Lóngjǐng or mislabelled entirely.

How long does Lóngjǐng keep? Stored sealed in a cool, dark place or refrigerated, fine Lóngjǐng keeps 12–18 months without significant loss. Exposure to air, moisture, or heat degrades it rapidly. Pre-Qīngmíng grades are most delicate — drink within the first season for peak character.